Player or not, Singapore slowly works its magic on you

Tom Mitchell has played and commentated on sevens rugby in Singapore. It took him a little time, but he knows now which visits he prefers…

Last year, working the Singapore leg of the HSBC SVNS as a commentator, the perks of not worrying about ‘time on feet’, hydration levels or sleep hours played out during a pleasant evening at Raffles. I sat, sipping a Singapore Sling or several with a few ex-players – former teammate Dan Norton, and Australia’s Olympic gold medallists Alicia Quirk and Chloe Dalton. 

This freedom allowed me to see the city in all its glory. It was as if I had finally seen the place for what it was in a way that shone a favourable light on my memories I had made there over the years. And it wasn’t just the cocktails!

In 2018, I had spent a chilled evening with a couple of cultured members of the group in the Gardens by the Bay. 

We watched the twinkling lights arranged around the hand-planted greenery. Tall structures resembling huge trees surged into the night sky while atmospheric music played out of speakers hidden in the undergrowth. It was quite something. 

But I only fully appreciated this memory once I returned to the famous spot last year and, with no restriction on number of steps or any training sessions to think about, roamed the gardens freely and truly marvelled at the glory, the beauty and the innovation. Well worth a visit, day and night.

In 2017, we spent four hours playing cards under a canopy at Sarnie’s coffee shop as the torrential rain poured. The cafes of Amoy and Telok Ayer St are great places to while away the hours. Back then, it was one of those “I can’t believe we are getting paid to do this!” moments. 

I had the same moment in a similar part of town last year. But, due to my new freedom, I subbed out the coffee for a cold lunchtime beer. The bustling narrow thoroughfare of Haji lane provided a humming people watching opportunity with just enough shade to make it bearable on a sunny day. 

If there is one spot in Singapore that pops up on players’ Instagram stories that will make you think “are these guys on holiday?!” it is Sentosa Island. 

With beaches and various outdoor pursuits the common snap is that of players harnessed up ready to hit the zipline. In 2019, I went down the highwire ride with a few lads, once we had finally found a helmet small enough to fit on Norton’s head. For a little hit of adrenaline among the food, drink and history, this place is worth a visit.

It is becoming more and more popular to explore cities on foot at a gentle run, thanks to run clubs. When I subscribed to this mission last year with fellow commentator and journalist Claire Thomas, I got more than I bargained for – in part, because she is a very good runner and the gentle plod was more like a steady trot putting my now untrained legs to the test. 

But I also got more than I was expecting in terms of the experience. Hearing the sound of my trainers on the tarmac of the actual Formula 1 track as we rounded into the home straight was very cool. 

This was part of our route which also took in a glimpse of the epic National Stadium, host to the tournament, with its ‘mouth’ open at one end, and a quick pit stop at the foot of the Helix Bridge to watch baby otters flopping in and out of the water and some iguanas seeking some early morning sunshine. 

As far as getting to see the city, even though some wonders like the rooftop pool at the Marina Bay Sands sit up on high, a jog around the compact city at ground level is well worth it.

With so many great memories of Singapore I can feel my nostalgia spilling over. 

Keep your eyes peeled, if you’re lucky enough to be there, for players roaming around and making the most of their strictly monitored time off. Best bet for the GB boys is at Jermyn Street barbers where they are kindly offered a free trim every year – complete with a side order of banter from the other boys about your ‘new roof’ regardless of whether it looks good or not.

The great news is that there is all this and more in Singapore. And, if you find yourself unconvinced of its wonders, give it chance. It took me a while, too.